Last weekend I visited my cousin at her new apartment where she showed me her dry erase wall. I love the idea especially because I’m in school and I’m need to write everything down as a part of my learning process. I doubt my boyfriend would like to see my BMGT402 notes scrawled all over our apartment, but I think it’s a pretty neat idea.

Check out the tutorial and products used from  2 Friends 2 Cities

***Just a few notes:

-This works on your wall as well (if it’s smooth) if you don’t want to add the pieces of wood

-A few blogs mentioned Idea Paint instead of Rustoleum, so perhaps it would be good to look into both

-You have to allow ample time, a few days to a week, for the dry erase paint to set or else the ink from the markers will not come off easily

Here’s the how to make a whiteboard:

I bought two thin boards for $12 each.  They are about 1/8 inch thick.

The picture above shows the completed whiteboard from the side.  The boards are so thin, the whiteboard is flush with the wall.

The boards were originally 8′ x 4′ but I had them cut down slightly to fit between the crown molding.  The original plan was to make the entire wall a whiteboard but because of a huge air-conditioning vent at the bottom right side of the wall, we could only cover a portion of the wall.

It ended up working out well because now my husband can put other things like pictures or a calendar on the right side.   I’m starting to decorate his office so I’ll let you know about the fun stuff happens there soon!

Nail boards to the wall using thin nails.  It needs to be small nails with thin, barely there nail heads so that there are not any indentions on the board surface.  Nails that look almost like a pin. The surface needs to be flat as possible. If large screws or nails are used it will be very hard to cover up and sand down so many holes with wood filler.

Here is how we installed the boards.

If more than one board is used, wood filler will need to be used between boards to make it look like one continuous sheet.  I filled with wood filler and sanded twice to get it smooth.

Then I taped the sides with painters tape and applied five coats of latex primer.  Five!!

The wood I used was pretty smooth but I wanted to make the whiteboard as smooth as possible which is the reason for applying 5 coats.  The first two coats just absorbed into the wood and it was really only the last 3 that started to give it good coverage.  I also lightly sanded between coats to help ensure smoothness.

All five coats were applied using this tiny smooth roller..which is one of my new favorite toys.  I used this roller on a few other projects including painting furniture and am really pleased with the results.  Pretty smooth finish and the roller doesn’t suck up or waste a bunch of paint.

Priming took two days to give the paint adequate time to dry.  Then it was time to whiteboard!  I didn’t buy the Idea Paint I talked about before.  Idea Paint was more expensive ($175.00) and it also required shipping.  I had already held off on this project long enough and didn’t want to wait longer for it to get shipped.

I ended up using Rust-oleum which I bought at Home Depot. It was substantially cheaper –$21/kit.  Each kit can provide two coats of a paint for a 7′ by 7′area so I bought two kits.  (Something to consider if you want to do this project is the Rust-oleum only comes in white.  Idea Paint comes in several colors.)

The whiteboard paint kit comes in a two part solution.

Mix Part A with Part B to activate solution.

Stir well.

Then start painting using a roller designed to leave a smooth finish.

Each coat an be applied after the prior coat has had 20-30 minutes drying time. All coats must be completed within 2 hours.

At least two coats of whiteboard paint are recommended.  I painted 4 coats.


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